Marietta, Ohio – Where Western Expansion Began

We arrived in Marietta during lunch, nearly two hours ahead of schedule. Diane and I skipped dessert so we could get off the ship and start exploring sooner. We were tied up at the Public Landing near the foot of Front Street.

The ship had arranged admission to three museums in town: The Castle Historic House Museum, the Campus Martius, and the Toy and Doll Museum; they’d also arranged a bus loop. We decided to walk instead, and set off for The Castle.

Front Street was interesting; there were quite a few enticing shops and far too many vacant ones. We saw a couple of pylons like this one as we approached Muskingum Park.

The text on the pylons clearly related to Marietta’s role as the first American settlement in the Northwest Territories, but there seemed to be something missing. We continued onward along the park and soon found ourselves at the memorial to the “Start Westward of the United States”, carved by Guzman Borglum of Mt. Rushmore fame.

We also found a couple of interesting wooden carvings nearby, with no explanation.

It wasn’t until I started writing this blog entry that I discovered that they’d been carved by a local artist, Perl Totman, who wanted to do something useful with the ash trees in the park that had been killed by the emerald ash borer. He started the project at age 85 and passed along the torch when he turned 89!

We made up for not having dessert on the ship by stopping at Whit’s Frozen Custard; they’d rescued a decrepit Pure Oil station. The custard was quite tasty, but I think the building was more interesting.

We arrived at The Castle at the same time as the first bus from the ship. It had been built for a successful lawyer who was killed at Antietam; other prominent local families owned it, and the final resident five days before her 100th birthday. It’s filled with furnishings from its entire life; the last owner put in the most modern of ’70s intercoms (I don’t know if they still work).

Our speaker this morning had talked about the moundbuilders of the Ohio and Mississippi River Valleys and had mentioned that there was a mound in Marietta; it had been converted into a veterans’ cemetery. It was only a couple of blocks away from the Castle, so we walked over to take a look and climb the mound (stairs had been installed decades ago).

We walked over to the Campus Martius, which is at the original site of the stockade that the first residents of Marietta built. Their leader was Rufus Putnam, and we arrived just in time to join a tour of his house, which was part of the museum.

By the time the tour was over, the museum was closing, so we left to walk back to the ship.

I saw another pair of pylons at the other end of Muskingum Park, this time in a residential area. When we got back to the ship, I researched them and discovered the Final Report of the Northwest Territory Celebration Commission that they were actually part of the “Start Westward of the United States” memorial. The text was hard to read on the pylons, but it was included in the report:

The Ordinance of 1787 contained the United States first governmental recognition of the Rights of Men Not included in the Constitution originally adopted they were later added until all of them are now part of our organic law.

Here the new United States of America found through Northwest Territory the first and common offspring of thirteen discordant and disputatious states her formula to eminence among all the governments of mankind.

Here with the founding of the nation’s first colony and establishment of the first American civil government west of the thirteen original states began the march of the United States of America across a continent to the western sea.

To those unfamed citizens who conceived a new purpose and direction for this nation in its making and whose insistence upon incorporation of the Rights of Men into our fundamental law set the pattern for America’s contribution to the governmental process of humanity.

It was an interesting afternoon in Marietta; I wouldn’t mind going back sometime and seeing some of what we missed.

They dunnit!

I enjoyed tonight’s murder mystery, “The Ghost of the Mike Fink”, presented by Murder and Merriment. It was fun, if a bit chaotic, and I especially liked it because I was one of the only two people to solve the murders. :-) (The other was our guest speaker, David Dorsey.)

Maysville, KY – a surprising little town

Today’s port call was Maysville, Kentucky, a town of about 8800 residents. It took us about 12 hours to sail there from Cincinnati; our tour buses took an hour to cover the distance by road.

Maysville was the third town where we were greeted by people from the local tourist board; they were enthusiastic and brought gifts (well, small tote bags filled with literature about the town). Diane and I took separate tours today; she went to the Old Washington section of town and saw historical sites (the first Post Office west of the Alleghanies and the location where Harriet Beecher (not yet Stowe) saw a slave being beaten, to name just two).

I took the downtown tour, which began with a trip to the Kentucky Gateway Museum Center. It has three distinct sections. One focuses on regional history and is filled with artifacts like this “National Currency” note issued by a local bank less than 100 years ago; I hadn’t known that banks were still authorized to issue currency as late as 1935 until today.

The Kathleen Savage Browning Miniatures Collection was the second section I visited; Kaye Browning has been traveling the world and collecting (or commissioning) 1/12-scale miniatures for more than 40 years. There’s a model of Spencer House (Princess Diana’s ancestral home), recreations of rooms like a Shaker Retiring Room, and much much more. It would be easy to spend a whole morning looking at the collection.

The final section of the museum was the Old Pogue Experience, devoted to the history of Bourbon in Mason County, with special attention paid to the Old Pogue Distillery, which was Bourbon Distillery No. 3 in Kentucky and is once more owned by the original family. I took advantage of the chance to taste their Bourbon and Rye; I thought the Rye was smoother, but I’d drink the Bourbon quite happily, too – if someone else was buying (it’s $110/bottle if you can find it).

Our other stop for the day, the Russell Theatre was just a couple of blocks away, so I walked (it also gave me a chance to visit an ATM!). I ran into our driver just outside the theatre and he asked if I could go with him to the nearby Underground Railroad sites and take his photo there; I was happy to do so. The first site we walked to was Phillips’ Folly; it’s a large house built in 1831, and claims to have hosted escaping slaves on their way to freedom – it’s a private residence and not open to the public. The other site was a long block uphill; it’s the National Underground Railroad Museum, which is a documented Safe House on the Underground Railroad – it’s open to the public, but only on certain days, not including today.

We walked back to the theatre and I joined the tour, already in progress. The theatre was saved from destruction in 1995; the restoration process has been very slow (there still is no HVAC, only fans), but it is being used on a regular basis for shows and movies and other events.

No day in Maysville would be complete without mentioning Rosemary Clooney, who was born in Maysville and is buried there. She chose the Russell Theatre to premiere her hit movie, “The Stars Are Singing” in 1953 (and broke its segregation rules to have her childhood best friend Blanche Chambers sit with her on the main level).

I would have liked to spend more time in Maysville, but we steamed away just before noon for another long stretch on the Ohio, heading to Marietta, Ohio. This afternoon, we had a talk on the Taft Family Dynasty in Ohio Politics, and this evening, there’s a murder mystery. Right now, we’re sitting on our balcony enjoying the river; we just went past Ironton, Ohio.

A hurried visit to Cincinnati

We awoke this morning with Great American Ball Park just outside our window.

Our morning excursion took us to the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center.

As a proud RPI graduate, I felt required to get a good photo of the Roebling Bridge while I was in Cincinnati, and the view from the Freedom’s Eternal Flame Terrace provided the opportunity I needed.

We only had an hour and a half at the Center, and it wasn’t long enough. I knew a lot of the information, but the Center put it in context, and that made a big difference in being able to feel what had happened over the years. The Center doesn’t just talk about slavery; it also has exhibits on what colonization and settlement did to Indians, as well as quite a bit of space given to women’s rights (or the lack thereof). The exhibit on “modern slavery” (human trafficking) was chilling, too. I would have liked to have seen the slave pen and explored the implicit bias material, but there just wasn’t enough time.

After lunch, we took a quick walk along the waterfront; the Reds were hosting the Brewers and the area was busy with people hurrying to the game. We could hear the crowd singing the national anthem when we walked past the ballpark; I was startled when they shot off fireworks at “the rockets’ red glare”.

Then we went to the Cincinnati Art Museum for a slightly longer visit. I spent most of my time on the second floor in the American and European art rooms (they also have good collections of ancient art, Asian and Islamic art, and they devote a lot of the first floor to art created in or related to Cincinnati). Two of my favorite pieces were “Hell Ain’t Half Full” by Ned Cartledge and “Night Writer” by R.M. Fischer, but there were many others I enjoyed, too.

And then it was time to take the bus back to the ship and sail away.

A dangerous day for a diet

We had to get up early this morning to join the 8:30am excursion to Churchill Downs and the Kentucky Derby Museum (two different companies; the Museum is a non-profit).

We got there early enough to see horses on the track for their morning workouts.

I’ve never seen a horse race in person (or bet on one), but I found the Museum fascinating; the film about the Derby was a highlight.

We had about 40 minutes to explore the Museum and visit the gift shop, which wasn’t enough time to see as much as I wanted to see in the Museum, so my wallet remained unscathed.

Our tour included mini-Mint Juleps and small slices of Derby Pie, but that was just the beginning. We had freshly-baked cookies served to us on the 20-minute drive back to the ship, and lunch followed soon after, complete with a full-sized slice of Derby Pie.

After lunch, we had a Bar Talk, where Tracy, the assistant cruise director, took us through various liquors and liqueurs and showed us how to make margaritas and blue margaritas; samples were provided.

And then there was the Eagle Society (loyalty program) reception with chocolate-covered strawberries and champagne (California sparkling wine if you want to be totally correct).

We went back to our room for a short while and enjoyed watching people having fun on the Ohio.

Cocktail hour followed; there was still no ginger beer available so I had an Old-Fashioned and Diane had a whiskey sour, with cheese and other goodies. And then there was dinner.

The musical entertainment tonight is Johnathan Len‘s “Jukebox Memories” show; so far, I haven’t indulged in anything caloric during the shows, and I plan to keep it that way tonight!