More Paris Walking

Once in a while, a Facebook suggestion in my timeline is actually useful, and today was one of those days. A few days ago, it surfaced a post from the Les Frenchies group which suggested going to Hotel de la Mârine to enjoy seeing opulence without schlepping out to Versailles and fighting the crowds there.

We followed the advice and walked there this morning; it was grey and dreary, but even a grey day in Paris offers delights.

Jeanne d’Arc

The building itself is enormous and glorious; the French Navy used it as their headquarters for more than two centuries and preserved things very well. We toured the apartments of the Intendants of the Garde-Meuble de la Couronned and we quite enjoyed it. They give you a headset which offers (sometimes amusing) commentary as you go through the apartments (much opulence, though not up to Versailles’ level); you also get to explore the State Rooms. The building also played a role in the Revolution.

First Antechamber (stove and statue)
First Antechamber (fountain)
Grand Chamber
Grand Chamber: Rolltop Desk
Cabinet de travail
Cabinet de travail: Pistols
Chambre à coucher de Monsieur Thierry de Ville-d’Avray
Lathe in the cabinet de physique: physics and mechanical arts were all the rage just before the revolution!
Chambre des bains: And of course you need a bed and a desk in youir bathroom!
Salle à manger: A simple table
Salle à manger: ingredients
Salon de compagnie: Gaming Table
Chambre à coucher de Madame Thierry de Ville-d’Avray
Lieux à l’anglaise: maybe it’s an idiom?
Cabinet des glaces (Mirror room)
State Rooms
State Rooms

The views of the Place de la Concorde are terrific (I can only imagine what they’d look like on a sunny day).

Place de la Concorde from the loggia with the Eiffel Tower in the fog
Looking towards Invalides
Jeu de Paume (Museum of Mechanical and Electronic Imagery)
On the Loggia

After lunch, we decided to follow Rick Steves’ Historic Paris Walk, beginning at Notre Dame. They expect to reopen the cathedral in December; right now, there are bleachers opposite the main entrance to let you see the façade and the progress that’s being made – it’s actually easier to see the entrance than it was before the fire.

View from the bleachers of the Notre Dame Restoratoin
The gargoyles survived
Rose Window
Saint-Denis carrying his head
The Last Judgment at Notre Dame
Charlemagne
Side view of Notre Dame

The next stop on the tour was the Memorial to the Martyrs of the Deportation, in a little park across from the rear of Notre Dame. It was sobering, especially considering the stakes of the Presidential election today.

Memorial to the Martyrs of the Deportation

We spent a long time at the Memorial before resuming the tour; our next visit was to Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, a Mekite Greek Catholic church on the Left Bank. It’s older than Notre Dame (and much smaller).

Exterior of Eglise Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre

Our next stop was at Shakespeare and Company, another place I’d heard of but had never visited. We left empty-handed.

Shakespeare and Company

We passed by the Church of St. Séverin and the Fountain of Saint Michael.

Flamboyant Gothic: Church of St. Séverin
St. Séverin Gargoyle
Saint Michael’s Fountain

And that was it for today; we’ll have to finish the walk tomorrow.

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