Other than that…

We went to bed last night before any polls had closed in the US, but when we awoke it was all over but the final counting. We had breakfast at L’Express Bar, which, sadly, had TVs tuned to the news (in French, but they were showing video from Mar-a-Lago). The food was good, but my appetite was lacking.

We went back to the apartment; it took a while to get up the energy to go out, but eventually we did so we could finish the Rick Steves Historic Paris walk we’d started yesterday. We picked up the walk at Place Dauphin, which was commissioned by King Henri IV and named for his son, the Dauphin (which means “dolphin”).

We crossed the street to look at Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of Ile de la Cité.

The walk was supposed to end on Pont Neuf, but we’d crossed that bridge several times and wanted to go somewhere else. Diane had seen a recommendation for Maison de Victor Hugo, so walked there. As usual, we stopped for photos and made some detours, including lunch at L’As du Fallafel in the Marais.

Pont au Change
Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)
Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)
In the Marais
Yiddish Food, anyone?

As we left the restaurant, I was accosted and asked if I was Jewish – I said “yes”, and soon found myself being “helped” to don tefillin for the first time in many years!

I was a little surprised not to be offered the tefillin so I could keep performing the mitzvah on my own, but it’s just as well.

We continued on our way to Place des Vosges and the museum. The area was plastered with posters like the one below (both English and French versions). I waited until I was back in the apartment and could use a QR reader to safely examine the code – it’s a link to a Parisian “pixel artist”‘s Instagram page!

We finally reached the Place des Vosges, which we’d seen on some Paris Walks in the past; the museum was in the far corner. As advertised, it’s Victor Hugo’s apartment, filled with artwork relating to his works as well as items he’d owned.

Quasimodo sauvant la Esmeralda des mains de ses bourreaux (Eugénie Henry, 1832)
Quasimodo (Anonymous)
The Chinese Living Room
Victor Hugo’s standing desk
Victor Hugo’s deathbed
Victor Hugo on his deathbed (Bonnat, 1885)

On our way back to the apartment, I was taken aback by a huge church and decided we should go in and see if it was as magnificent on the inside as it was on the outside. It was.

Èglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis

La Vierge de douleur (Pilon, 1586)

Later, we went out for a pre-dinner stroll through the Louvre and the Tuleries.

Louis XIV
The Tuleries Ferris Wheel is back

One of France’s oldest private detectives is just down the street from our apartment; Atlas Obscura had the details.

The street we’re on has many, many restaurants – La Renommée certainly has the most interesting façade (and impressive prices to go with it). We chose to return to Rarita for comfort food (Italian).

Tomorrow, we start the next-to-last phase of our trip; I’m going to miss this neighborhood (and all of Paris).