Technically, no museums today!

We took it easy this morning in hopes that the weather in Florence would improve, but all of our apps said it would be a good day to get out of town, so we took the train to Pisa (I should note that the trains we took today did not run on time), arriving a little before noon.

We followed Rick Steves’ Pisa Walking Tour, beginning with a look back at the station with its Fascist-era arcade (the umbrella vendor was an omen we chose not to heed).

In front of Pisa Centrale

We walked to Piazza Victor Emanuelle II, which was rebuilt after WWII (Pisa was a main target and much of the city was heavily bombed, including the bridge we took over the Arno later in the day). There’s quite a lot of street art in Pisa, including a Keith Haring just off the square.

Pisa loves Vittorio Emanuelle II
Tuttomondo (Keith Haring)
Galileo Galilei (Eduardo Kobra, 2013)

We had lunch at Leonardo Café e Ristoro and really enjoyed it – everything was fresh and delicious. We split a pistachio cheesecake, something I’d never seen in the US – I’d like to find one this good again!

We continued on Rick Steves’ route until we reached the Arno.

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine
Corsa Italia (shopping street)
Nearing the Arno
Pisa, home of the leaning antenna

We added a stop at Palazzo Gambacorte (City Hall), drawn to it by the decorations on its wall.

Bronze Medal of Valor for the Resistance – 45 years after the war
No separation of Church and State here

The inside had a special exhibit commemorating 100 years of the telephone company!

We crossed the Arno on the Ponte di Mezzo, which was rebuilt after the Allies destroyed it in 1943. and continued through Piazza Garibaldi and along the high-end shopping street, Borgo Stratto, with detours to the Church of St. Michael and Piazza delle Vettovaglie, which the book calls “lively by day and sketchy by night”.

Piazza Garabaldi
Church of St. Michael (writing on the outside emphasized by me)
Borgo Stretto (note the curves, echoing the river)
Inside St. Michaels
I wonder if they have pumpkin spice booze here

We paid our respects to Galileo (again) as well as Ulisse Dini, an Italian mathematician who attended the Schola Normale Superiore (and became its director), which is just down the street in Piazza dei Cavalieri.

Galileo
Ulisse Dini – Mathematician! He attended the Schola Normale Superiore a block away (and was its director later in life)
Schola Normal Superiore with Medici statue in front
Medicis Rule OK!

The walk ended at the “Field of Miracles” (Campo dei Miracoli), where we spent a couple of hours exploring and trying to stay out of the rain.

Duomo, Bapistery, and pilgrims
Diane, keeping the Tower under control
Waiting to climb the tower
Medici Family Shield in the Duomo ceiling
Pulpit (Giovanni Pisano)
Galileo’s Lamp (now wired to avoid any chance of swinging)
The workers doing renovation swing like pendulums!
Duomo Altar
Duomo Apse Mosaic
Pulpit (Giovanni Pisano) front view
Duomo Dome (Assumption of Mary)
St. John the Baptist welcomes us to the Bapistery
Bapistery Pulpit (Nicola Pisano)
I guess someone is buried here
Font viewed from the gallery
This bird has NO respect
View of the Doumo and Tower from the Bapistery Gallery

We left the Field of Miracles and slogged the most direct route we could find back to the train station, saying “no” to several more umbrella vendors along the way. I left my camera in the bag to keep it dry, but trust me…there was nothing interesting to photograph along the way.

As it turns out, Florence got a lot less rain than Pisa today. How do you say “c’est la vie” in Italian?

Science, Art, Food, and a double dose of Galileo

We started today with a visit to the Galileo Science Museum. They have two main collections of scientific instruments, the Medici Collection (16th-18th Centuries) and the Lorraine Collection (18th-19th Centuries). The instruments contributed to the advancement of science, and many of them are beautiful works of art, too.

Plane astrolabe
Armillary Sphere (Volpaia, 1564)
Box of Mathematical Instruments, Quadrants, and Gunner’s Rule
Optical trick (look in the mirror above the painting)
Armillary Sphere (Santucci, 1588-1593)
Terrestrial Globe (late 17th C.)
Celestial Globe
Gores used to create globes
Navigational Instruments
Topographical Military Instruments
Galilean Compound Microscope (second half of 17th C.)
Galileo’s middle finger!
Fifty- and one-hundred-degree thermometers (17th C).
Frog thermometer
Early telescopes
Circle-dividing engine
Newton’s Cradle, early version
The disk rolls to the top!
Electrical Magic Show
Balances
Planetary Clock

We finished at the Galileo Museum a bit before noon, with just enough time to grab a quick lunch before our 1pm entry time for the Uffizi. Rick Steves steered us to All’Antico Vinalo, which he called “trendy”. The line stretched on for nearly a block!

The line for All’Antico Vinaio’s sandwiches

Fortunately, I noticed they had a location across the street with kiosks for placing your order and a warning that you could not customize your sandwiches at that location. We waited three minutes to get to a kiosk, five minutes for our sandwich, and were able to find seats inside at the location with the endless line! We both had caprese sandwiches and enjoyed them immensely…and even had time for dessert at Vivoli Gelato (another trendy place).

We got back to the Uffizi a few minutes before 1pm, ready to stroll into the museum. We were not alone.

The 1pm pre-booked Uffizi line

It was probably 1:30 before we were actually in the galleries; the Uffizi stays open on Tuesdays until 9pm, but we ran out of energy (and had seen almost everythihg) by 5:30.

A small part of the gallery ceiling
Crucifix with scenes from the life of Christ (circa 1230-1250)
Adoration of the Magi (Monaco)
Coronation of the Virgin (Monaco)
Madonna and Child (Masaccio, 1426)
Adoration of the Christ Child (Fra Lippi)
Duke and Dutchess of Urbino
Madonna and Child with Two Angels (Fra Lippi)
Two panels depicting Hercules (Pollaiolo, 15th C)
The Three Archangels and Tobias (Botticini)
Madonna of the Rose Garden (Botticelli)
Adoration of the Magi (Botticelli)
La Primavera (Botticelli) – LOQI put this on their Uffizi bag, and Diane bought it!
The Birth of Venus (Botticelli)
The Calumny of Apelles
The Old Dominion of the Florentine State (Butt, 1588)
Venus de’ Medici (1st C. BCE)
The Wrestlers
The Knife Grinder
View from the Sculpture Hall
Perseus freeing Andromeda (Piero di Cosimo)
Crucifixion with Mary Magdalen (Signorelli)
Holy Family with the Young St. John the Baptist (Michaelangelo)
Madonna and Child with the Young St. John the Baptist “Madonna of the Goldfinch” (Raphael)
Portraits of Agnolo Doni and Maddalena Strozzi (Raphael)
Laocoön (Bandinelli)
View from the Uffizi Dining Terrace
La studio di Rubens (de Baellieur)
Self-portrait (Rembrandt)
Self-Portrait (Gumpp)
Self-Portrait (Chagall)
Venus of Urbino (Titian)
The Expulsion of Adam and Eve (Tintoretto)
Esther and Ahasuerus (Veronese_
Salome with the head of St. John the Baptist (Battistello)
Testa di Medusa (Carvaggio)
Judith and Holofernes (Rubens)
A Rabbi (Rembrandt)
Portrait of Galileo Galilei (Suttermans)

We were ready for dinner, and there was an interesting looking place just down the block – Auditore Ristorante Braceria. Given their location, I was afraid they might be a tourist trip, so I looked them up on TripAdvisor and was shocked to discover that they had a 5.0 rating! How could we refuse?

They specialize in steak, but we’d both had that yesterday, so I had the roasted chicken with arugula and Grand Padano cheese and Diane had pasta with basil pesto and cherry tomatoes, plus a salad, roast potatoes, and wine. They lived up to their rating!