Success!

Our day began earlier than we’d planned, when we discovered that we were both wide awake at 5:30am…which would have been 7:30am if we’d still been in Italy. So we got up and did things until 7, when the restaurant opened for breakfast. Then we headed out to the Blue Lagoon to meet the rest of the group. Not much had changed at the lagoon except that they’d created a few lavabreaks (like firebreaks) to protect the powerplant which fuels the Blue Lagoon (and a good bit of the island) during the recent eruptions nearby, and they’d had to build a new road since the old one was partially covered by the lava.

End of the road!

After our swim, we joined the National Trust group for the drive back to Reykjavik; they took us on a scenic tour instead of going directly to Hallgrímskirkja Church.

Roadside lava supply
They take their Vikings seriously in Hafnarfjörður
Typical Reykjavik-area mural

Grand Mosque with Hallgrímskirkja in the distance
Hallgrímskirkja organ (5000+ pipes)

Diane and I had lunch at Reykjavik Fish, one of our favorites from our previous visit. Not much had changed there, either (except, perhaps, the prices), and we both had Arctic char and Víking Gylltur lager.

I’d been keeping an eye on the aurora forecast, and conditions looked plausible for this evening. I didn’t think we’d be able to see anything from the hotel (too much light), but thought we might have some success at The Pond (big local park with a pond in the middle), so we walked there to scope out the territory and work off some of the beer.

Preparing for the Nordic Council Meeting
Lutheran Free Church from The Pond
The Unknown Bureaucrat contemplating the fencing set up for the Nordic Council Meeting
Along The Pond
Yes, that’s ice
Mermaid by Nína Sæmundsson – 1948
Lutheran Free Church, National Gallery

When we returned to the hotel, I mentioned our plan to the desk clerk, who suggested we’d have better luck seeing lights from the harbor…which was also the location of Valdis, an ice cream shop I wanted to visit. After the welcome reception, we walked to Valdis, where we were surprised to see Steve and Kim, a couple who we’d chatted with during the reception – they’d taken a taxi to Valdis and were planning to go look for aurora, too, so we joined forces. The area around Valdis was very brightly lit and we couldn’t even see stars in the sky, but they’d been told to go to “the beach” (with no specific location). I pulled out my phone and found the closest north-facing beach, about five blocks away…off we went, past Whales of Iceland, past a supermarket and a furniture store, and even past the Lysi cod liver oil plant, where we saw steps leading up to a path at the edge of the land with hardly any streetlights. We climbed the steps…and found the aurora!

We enjoyed the sight for a while, took lots of pictures (I should have brought my tripod!), and marveled.

They hope to have an official aurora-hunting expedition tomorrow, but the weather forecast is not looking good, so I’m glad we didn’t just stay in the hotel tonight!

Reykjavik looks different at night!

In the summer of 2021, we circumnavigated Iceland on a National Trust tour and had a great time. We saw the main tourist attractions…except, of course, the Northern Lights because it was summer and never really got dark.

Winter started today, at least according to the old Norse calendar, and we’re back on another National Trust tour in search of the Northern Lights.

It was a long day of travel, starting with hauling our bags up the stairs of Florence Santa Maria Novella Terminal, then dragging them all the way to the end of the train to reach our assigned seats, changing trains in Milan Central, and braving the Duty Free refund process at Milan Malpensa airport. The flight itself was very pleasant; Icelandair even gave out snacks in celebration of Gormánuður (cocoa and a pastrty which was much like a beignet), and we landed at Keflavik International Airport right on time.

A winter snack, Icelandair-style!

It was easy to figure out where to go after we picked up our luggage.

Once we’d gotten to the Borg Hotel and dropped off our luggage, we went out for a short walk, going up the rainbow street all the way to Hallgrímskirkja church to enjoy seeing it lit up.

Most of the rest of the tour group is flying in overnight; we’ll meet them at the Blue Lagoon tomorrow after breakfast. And then the hunt begins!