Saint-Pierre et Miquelon

We reached Saint-Pierre et Miquelon about noon local time (UTC-2, half an hour ahead of Newfoundland, even though we sailed west to get here). We docked at the cruise ship port, about a five-minute ride from the town of Saint-Pierre.

Docked and ready

We took a Zodiac to Île aux Marins (the Island of Fishermen), which used to support a thriving population of fishermen and their families. Today, it’s a “ghost island”, with a few inhabitants during the summer and no one living there during the winter.

Happy Zodiac riders

There are no cars on the island, but there is a parking lot!

The main (well, only) industry on Île aux Marins was cod fishing…until it wasn’t; the last full-time inhabitants left in 1963. Our guide Michael pointed out a “cod-drying” field; the cod was dried on the rocks, which left it in good condition.

Every summer, there is a soccer camp on the island; the kids stay in this house, which was built in 1863 as a nursery school.

I could see the church and cemetery in the distance.

Church and Cemetery in the mist

I was surprised to see new construction on the island – someone is an optimist!

There have been more than 670 shipwrecks here since 1830. The lighthouse was built in 1872 to help with the problem.
Memorial for the shipwreck of the La Clarice(?). 60 people died (7 survived).

We visited the laundry, which was built in the late 19th century. There was no running water on the island, but there was a spring just outside the laundry. Until it was built, the residents (well, the women) had to take their washing to Saint-Pierre by dory!

Inside the laundry. The wooden piece in the foreground was used as a kneeler by women as they did the laundry.

We spent a good amount of time visiting the cemetery and the church.

The final gravesite on the island (2020). There will be no more.
Oldest grave – 1876
Grotto a la Lourdes
In 1927, a friar built the stations of the cross to memorialize the men from Île aux Marins who died in WWI.
Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Marins

The school (built in 1863, closed in 1963) has been converted into a museum, filled with artifacts from the island’s life.

The sailors who lived on Île aux Marins were also known as “Red Feet”

The island has adopted the motto of the city of Paris, “Fluctuat nec Mergitur”, which translates as “he is rocked by waves but does not sink”.

We returned to the ship and took a bus to Saint-Pierre.

Off to see the big city!

We were told we’d like the Heritage Museum; it’s overflowing with interesting exhibits (some had English signage) and artifacts telling the story of Saint-Pierre et Miquelon since its settlement.

The eye chart is different in French!
Lighthouse lenses
Ancient appliances

Bootlegging was an important part of the economy during Prohibition in the US, and it got its share of attention in the museum.

The Heritage Museum has a big display about bootleggers during US Prohibition

After we’d finished with the museum, we wandered around the city; most of the shops were closed, so we didn’t wander very long.

Local restaurant
City Hall
The Box of Colors (not open, unfortunately)
Back we go to the ship

We left Saint-Pierre et Miquelon just before dinner. I’d like to see it again on a brighter, less rainy day.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *