Off-Limits

Today’s exploration was bookmarked by bus rides. We started with a trip to the Battery and a walk though the Edmondston-Alston House, which had an incredible collection of furnishings and artifacts. Photos aren’t allowed inside, but they took us out on the second floor piazza so we could enjoy the harbor view; this time, I actually did take a picture of Fort Sumter!

From there, we walked along the Battery before going inland to tour the Heyward Washington House (Washington actually slept there, so they added his name to improve its attractiveness to tourists).

Lunch was at Eli’s Table; we got to choose our own entrĂ©e, but the tour had pre-ordered appetizers (fried green tomatoes) and desserts (beignets) to save time. When I told the server that Diane and I couldn’t eat shellfish and I was actually allergic, he told me that he’d have to find alternative appetizers and desserts for us, because of possible cross-contamination. I think we won – the appetizer was a waffle with an amazing cinnamon spread, and dessert was a peanut-butter caramel cheesecake!

We didn’t get to walk off much of the lunch because our next stop was at the Gibbes Museum of Art, nearly 100 yards away. We got a quick tour of the permanent collection – I liked the painting of the Bombardment of Fort Sumter.

I was also amazed that someone could sculpt a very realistic veil in marble.

Then it was back to the bus and the hotel to rest up for our evening adventure. Except that we needed some insect repellant, so we walked to Walgreens across the street. And as long as we were out, we continued on to the first Reform synagogue in the US, Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim (KKBE).

The gate into the courtyard wasn’t locked, but it didn’t want to open easily, so we were just about to go back to the hotel when another couple walked up and levered the gate open. We walked in with them and took a couple of photos, one of the sign over the entrance to the Sanctuary building and one of a much newer sign.

We were interrupted by a guard. As he came out, I could hear him telling someone that “I guess I didn’t lock the gate”; he decided we looked harmless and told us we could enjoy the courtyard for a few minutes, but if we wanted to come back, we should book a tour. We’ll be back on Thursday.

Dinner tonight was different – the group went to Bowen’s Island for a Low Country Oyster Roast. We had a private dining area out on the dock so we didn’t have to wait in the line.

It was a beautiful evening – we’d been warned to bring mosquito repellent, but we didn’t need it.

Lots of people were enjoying the late afternoon sunshine on the water, too.

We took a walk and saw the oystermen hard at work steaming the oysters.

Soon enough, oysters were delivered to the table and our host, Austin, showed people how to shuck them.

Everyone seemed to get the idea and they made short work of the oysters and the Frogmore Stew which followed. Well, everyone but Diane and me – our dinner was salad and pasta (not photo-worthy, I’m afraid).

Sunset was almost too pretty to be true.

It had been a good evening, but we had to get back on the bus and return to Charleston.

Learning Charleston by Foot

Our flight from Dallas was delayed, so we didn’t get to the Frances Marion Hotel until well after midnight, and it was at least 1:30am before we were in bed.

This morning, we had breakfast at the Swamp Fox Cafe (the hotel restaurant) – omelettes, toast, grits, and fruit. There was too much food to finish, though we tried!

The first event on our tour was at 4:30pm, so we had the day to ourselves – we decided to walk the Year Round Volksmarch to get an overview of Historic Charleston. We had a choice of the 5km or 10km distance, and we decided to do the whole thing.

The start point was a few blocks from our hotel, and the first stretch of the walk took us right back to the hotel – actually, to Marion Square across King Street. We took the obligatory selfie and also photographed the remains of the Tabby Horn Work (part of the original Colonial defenses) and the Rotary Fountain.

Next, we explored the College of Charleston, which we’d return to with our Study Leader this evening.

Then we walked into downtown Charleston, stopping at Charleston City Hall to see the Trumbull portrait of Washington in the Council Chambers, along with a bust of Fulton and, of course, a painting of John C. Calhoun.

We continued to White Point Gardens (The Battery) on the waterfront to enjoy the breezes and the views, including Fort Sumter (though the photo below is of Castle Pinckney).

There were even flowers!

We continued on to Waterfront Park for a much-needed Italian ice and more views.

Charleston has recently started to confront the history of slavery, with markers and the Old Slave Market Museum.

We also saw other, happier, historical commerce continuing to the present day.

Our final stop on the walk was Emanuel AME Church, the site of the murder of the Emanuel 9.

And then we returned to the hotel to rest briefly until it was time to meet the others on our tour and get started with a short lecture and a tour of the College of Charleston, led by our Study Leader, John Meffert.

We saw the Porters Lodge (old entrance to the college), Randolph Hall, houses that had been in the community but now were part of the college (such as the yellow “show house” built by a merchant who was using it to advertise his ability to build a similar house for others), and more. John told us how the college had grown and changed over the years, and how it affected the city.

Tomorrow is supposed to be a busy day, too.